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First leg of the journey
The journey to Greece is a long one; today you'll make good progress so the following days can be more relaxed.
Don't forget your Austrian vignette and the Brenner toll.
Long stage — allow time for breaks.
This is where your trip begins. From Stuttgart you'll head south over the Alps, tackling the long route to Greece in easy stages.
Verona is a good first stopover after crossing the Alps. In the evening you can stroll through the old town to the Arena and have dinner at an osteria. Today's drive stays manageable, even though it's a bit longer than your usual daily distance.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
Second leg of the journey and ferry crossing
The overnight ferry is ideal for combining distance and accommodation.
Book the same crossing straightaway for your return journey at the end of the trip.
Long stage — allow time for breaks.
From Verona you'll drive to the Adriatic coast at Ancona, the main ferry port for Greece. From here an overnight ferry takes you comfortably to Igoumenitsa, saving you the long overland route through the Balkans.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
You'll spend the night on board the ferry in an outside cabin. The crossing takes around 15 to 16 hours; you can eat on deck, rest, and watch the Greek coast appear in the morning.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
Arrival and the way into the mountains
After the ferry crossing, today is deliberately kept relaxed: hire car, a short stroll around town, then an early arrival in the village.
Choose a hire car with a bit of ground clearance, the mountain roads are sometimes narrow.
The ferry docks in Igoumenitsa in the morning. From here it's just a short drive along the modern Egnatia Odos motorway inland to Ioannina, where you'll pick up your hire car.
Ioannina sits picturesquely on Lake Pamvotida and is the gateway to Zagori. The Ottoman fortress of Kastro, with its mosques and museums, is well worth a wander, and along the lakeshore you can try freshwater fish at a taverna before heading up into the mountains.
Monodendri is one of the finest starting points for the Vikos Gorge. You'll stay in a traditional stone house with wooden beams and a fireplace, and from the terrace you'll look out over the village rooftops. A good place to settle in at ease.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
A day's hiking along the gorge rim
Start early to avoid the midday heat in the gorge.
Bring enough water for the descent, there's nowhere to resupply down below.
Right on the edge of Monodendri, the small rock-cut Agia Paraskevi Monastery clings spectacularly to the gorge wall. A narrow, secured path continues along the cliff edge, offering your first deep views into the Vikos Gorge. A good, moderately challenging start to the day's hike.
From the Oxya belvedere you'll look straight down into one of the deepest gorges in the world: the walls drop almost 1000 metres to the Voidomatis below. The viewpoint is reachable by car plus a short walk, and offers one of Zagori's most famous views.
From the old cobbled path below Monodendri you'll descend into the gorge and walk a stretch along the valley floor. The path is well marked and moderately challenging, and you can decide how far to go depending on your fitness before heading back the same way. Water and sturdy footwear are essential.
Old mule tracks and bridges
You can also walk just part of the Vradeto steps and then return to the car.
The move to Tsepelovo brings you closer to the eastern sights of Zagori.
The three-arched Kalogeriko bridge, also known as the Plakida bridge, is the emblem of Zagori's stone bridges. Its curved arches are reflected in the stream and date from the 19th century. Several more old bridges lie within walking distance around Kipoi.
The Skala Vradetou is a centuries-old stone path with around 1100 paved switchback steps, once the only route to Vradeto. The ascent or descent is moderately challenging and passes through a magnificent rocky landscape. A short but striking highlight.
Vradeto is the highest village in Zagori and for a long time could only be reached via the steps. From the nearby Beloi viewpoint you have one of the finest views, directly opposite the Vikos Gorge and the Oxya cliff. The walk to Beloi is an easy to moderate hike.
Tsepelovo is a lively stone village with a lovely square and good tavernas, central to eastern Zagori. You'll stay in a traditional stone guesthouse with cosy rooms. In the evening the square is a great spot for a simple meal beneath the plane trees.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
River landscape and mountain forest
This day involves more driving than the others; the roads are winding, so allow plenty of time.
If you'd prefer a quieter pace, shorten the walk at the Aoos springs and simply enjoy the lake.
The quiet mountain lake at the Aoos springs sits nestled among wooded slopes, a peaceful contrast to the rugged gorges. Easy to moderate trails lead around the shore and to the nearby Stomiou Monastery through old forest. A good spot for a picnic by the water.
The remote village of Vovousa lies right on the young Aoos river, spanned by an elegant old stone bridge in the middle of the village. Here the Pindus Mountains feel especially unspoilt, and the café by the river is a perfect place to rest. Vovousa is the easternmost point of your Zagori loop.
Switching to western Zagori
Half driving day, half rest day: deliberately more relaxed ahead of the big mountain hike.
Bring water shoes for the rock pools and the Voidomatis.
The Voidomatis is considered one of the clearest rivers in Europe; its turquoise-green, ice-cold water rises at the foot of the Vikos Gorge. At the old stone bridge near Aristi you can walk along the bank, dip your feet in the water, or simply enjoy the peace. A refreshing contrast to the high-altitude trails.
The Papingo villages sit spectacularly beneath the white limestone towers of the Astraka. You'll stay in one of Zagori's most famous stone houses, with views of the rock faces and a good breakfast. From here, the routes to Drakolimni start the next day.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
Above Megalo Papingo, the stream has carved smooth rock pools where you can swim in summer. The short walk there is easy and a lovely way to end the arrival day. The water is cool, but refreshing after a warm day.
Highlight in the mountains
A very early start is recommended, it's a long day and the route is physically demanding.
In uncertain weather or fog, limit the climb to the lower plateau; weather can change quickly higher up.
If you'd rather skip the full route, stay by the Voidomatis and do an easy valley walk instead.
Long stage — allow time for breaks.
From Mikro Papingo a well-marked, moderate to challenging path leads in around three to four hours to the Astraka saddle, with its mountain hut at about 1950 metres. The climb is the most demanding hike of the trip, but rewards you with sweeping views over the Tymfi massif. The hut offers refreshments and a chance to rest.
The Dragon Lake lies above 2000 metres between bare mountain ridges and is home to rare alpine newts, said by legend to be the dragons themselves. From the Astraka saddle it's around an hour to the turquoise water, which mirrors the sky on clear days. An unforgettable highlight of the trip.
Return journey and end of the round trip
The journey home from Ancona is too long for one day; plan realistically for another overnight stop in northern Italy.
Return the hire car where you picked it up if possible, to avoid extra fees.
Long stage — allow time for breaks.
After breakfast you'll drive out of the mountains back to the coast, drop off the hire car in Ioannina and reach the port of Igoumenitsa. From here the ferry takes you back to Ancona, sparing you the long overland route.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
On the way back you'll again spend the night in a cabin on board. You can enjoy a last glimpse of the Greek coast from the deck and arrive rested in Ancona to continue your drive towards Stuttgart. From Ancona it's still around a day and a half of driving to Stuttgart, which you'll split, as on the way out, with a stopover in northern Italy.
Booking ahead is often cheaper here
After the crossing and the onward drive via northern Italy and the Brenner Pass, you'll arrive back in Stuttgart. This completes your round trip through Zagori.
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