Three weeks of Moorish Andalusia - from Cologne to the south

This is where your trip begins. You set off in the morning so you can complete this first long stage in a relaxed way.

Beaune is the charming capital of Burgundy wine country, with the famous Hôtel-Dieu and a well-preserved old town. A pleasant first stop to have a relaxed meal after the long drive. Le Cep is centrally located in a historic town house.

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Carcassonne is the largest surviving medieval fortified town in Europe, with a double ring of walls and battlemented towers. A walk through the Cité in the evening light is a fitting start to the castles-and-history theme of the trip. The hotel sits right at the foot of the fortress.

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The restored fortified town with the Château Comtal and its ramparts is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Walking the walls gives you a good overview; the admission fee covers the castle itself, while the lanes are freely accessible.

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Zaragoza sits conveniently halfway to Andalusia and has plenty to offer, from the Basílica del Pilar to the Moorish Aljafería. A good staging point to arrive in Spain and enjoy tapas in the evening. The hotel is within walking distance of the main sights.

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The Aljafería Palace is the most important Moorish building outside Andalusia and sets the tone for the Alhambra and the Mezquita. Its fine stucco work and horseshoe arches from the Taifa period can be explored in about an hour.

Córdoba was once one of the largest cities in the world and the centre of Moorish al-Andalus. You'll be based in the Jewish quarter, just a few minutes from the Mezquita. The hotel combines several historic town houses with courtyards.

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The Mezquita-Catedral is the emblem of al-Andalus: a forest of red-and-white double arches, with a cathedral later built right in the middle. Early morning or the late opening hours are the quietest times. Allow at least ninety minutes.

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The Alcázar of the Christian Monarchs is particularly impressive for its sweeping gardens, ponds and lemon trees. From the towers you get lovely views over the river and the old town.

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The Roman bridge over the Guadalquivir and the Calahorra watchtower on the far bank offer the classic view back towards the Mezquita. It's especially atmospheric in the evening backlight, and a good starting point for tapas in the Judería.

Zuheros is a white mountain village with a ruined Moorish castle that seems to cling to the rock face. From here you get sweeping views over olive groves and the Sierra Subbética. The village is known for its goat's cheese, which you can sample on the spot.

The bat cave above Zuheros, with stalactites and traces of Neolithic settlement, can be visited on a guided tour. A cool, quiet contrast to the heat of the plain.

Carmona lies on the way to Sevilla and has a rich history, with the Moorish Alcázar and the Roman necropolis. A good stop for lunch and a short walk through the upper town.

Sevilla is the splendid capital of Andalusia and your second long base. The hotel sits right in the Santa Cruz quarter, just steps from the cathedral and the Alcázar. Everything can be reached on foot from here.

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The Real Alcázar is a still-inhabited royal palace with magnificent Mudéjar halls and sprawling gardens. The Salón de Embajadores and the water features show Moorish architecture at its finest. Early morning is the quietest time.

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Sevilla's cathedral is the largest Gothic church in the world and holds the tomb of Christopher Columbus. The Giralda was once the mosque's minaret and can be climbed via gentle ramps. From the top you get the best view over the city.

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The Plaza de España, built in 1928, is a semicircular ensemble with a canal, bridges and colourful tiled benches for every province of Spain. A stroll, or a short rowing boat trip, is especially rewarding in the morning. The adjoining Parque de María Luisa provides shade.

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The Triana quarter on the other side of the river is home to ceramics and flamenco. The market in the former San Jorge castle is a great spot to eat and shop. Afterwards, a stroll along the riverside promenade is a nice option.

Ronda perches spectacularly above a deep gorge and is one of the most striking towns in Andalusia. You'll stay in a historic mansion right in the old town, within walking distance of the Puente Nuevo and the viewpoints.

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The Puente Nuevo spans the El Tajo gorge at a height of almost a hundred metres, linking the old and new towns. From the viewpoints along the cliff edge you get breathtaking views. The light is loveliest in the late afternoon.

In Setenil de las Bodegas, houses are literally built in and under overhanging rock. The streets Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de la Sombra run beneath huge stone arches. It's a pleasant place to wander between the bars and tapas spots.

Back in Ronda, the afternoon is a good time for the Moorish old town of La Ciudad, with the Casa del Rey Moro and the Arab baths. The old water mills and baths show how the town was once supplied with water.

Antequera lies conveniently on the way and has a Moorish Alcazaba as well as prehistoric Neolithic dolmens. A good stop for lunch and a short walk. The dolmens of Menga are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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Granada, with the Alhambra, is the grand finale of your journey through Moorish cities. You'll stay in the historic Albaicín in an apartment with views over the city. From here, the viewpoints and the old town are within walking distance.

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The Alhambra is the pinnacle of Moorish architecture: the Nasrid Palaces with their stucco walls and water features, the Palacio de Carlos V, and the summer gardens of the Generalife. Allow half a day, and arrive for your booked time slot for the palaces. The view from the Alcazaba tower reaches as far as the Sierra Nevada.

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This famous viewpoint in the Albaicín offers the classic view of the Alhambra set against the snow-capped Sierra Nevada. Travellers and musicians gather here at sunset. An atmospheric way to round off the day.

The Capilla Real holds the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs who conquered Granada in 1492, right next to the mighty Renaissance cathedral. Together they tell the story of the end of Moorish al-Andalus. Both are close together in the centre.

The Sacromonte cave quarter, on the slope above the Darro, was traditionally home to the Roma community and remains a centre of flamenco to this day. The small cave museum explains life in the cuevas. In the evening, there are authentic flamenco shows here.

At over 2,500 metres, the high mountains of the Sierra Nevada begin at the Hoya de la Mora, with views of the highest peaks on the Iberian Peninsula. In May there's often still snow up here, while spring is in full bloom below. Easy walking trails and a panorama stretching to the Mediterranean.

Toledo brings together Moorish, Jewish and Christian heritage on a rocky spur above the Tajo. A fitting stopover on the way home, once again touching on the history of al-Andalus. The hotel is centrally located in the old town.

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San Sebastián is famous for its sweeping bay, La Concha, and the best pintxos in the Basque Country. An enjoyable stop before crossing the Pyrenees. The hotel is centrally located between the station and the old town.

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Bordeaux impresses with its elegant stone architecture and the vast reflecting pool of the Miroir d'eau by the river. A pleasant stop for a good dinner and a stroll through the old town. The hotel is centrally located, within walking distance of the sights.

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Tours sits right in the middle of the Loire Valley and is a good base for one last château visit. The old town, with its Place Plumereau, is a lovely spot for dinner. The hotel is a long-established house in the centre.

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The Château de Chenonceau, built over the river Cher, is one of the loveliest in the Loire and bears the stamp of several influential women. The gallery over the bridge and the gardens are well worth a stop on the way home.

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Reims is the heart of Champagne and boasts a great landmark in its Gothic cathedral, where the kings of France were once crowned. A fitting final stop for a glass of champagne. The hotel is centrally located near the cathedral.

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This last short stage brings you back to Cologne. After three weeks of Moorish Andalusia and a route crossing France and Spain, your journey ends back where it began.